tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41370283772423494822024-03-05T19:39:27.687-08:00Wylies' Watershed WayThis blog describes a walk along the British Watershed from John o'Groats to Land's End which Malcolm Wylie completed between 1996 and 2009.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.comBlogger140125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-69656061714569696682009-06-20T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-27T17:37:03.019-08:00Day 126 - journey's end at Land's End<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The final day of the Watershed was brilliant. The six of us set off at about 9:30am along the beautiful coastal path, and we were joined by brother-in-law Keith (of Section 12), nephew Peter (Sections 11 and 12) and brother Bartow (Section 3) along the way.<br />
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There were enough episodes in the morning to keep it interesting and fun for all 9 of us - a legitimate "rhubarb" in Trevowhan, some quasi-trespass and near-impassable vegetation, the large Chun Quoit stone, an enormous UFO-like maritime navigational aerial, and conversation about the phenomenal Painted Lady migration this year.<br />
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We lunched on Carn Brea with a clear view down to Land's End, and the excitement rose. Although we could have avoided part of the A30, we stuck to it as far as the Land's End car park, being joined by my friend Tony (Section 13) in Sennen. I'd previously decided that the finale would <u>not</u> be through the awful theme park, so by arrangement we met the rest of the family on the perimeter.<br />
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<li>previous walkers: daughter Karen (Sections 7 and 10), grandson Rufus (Section 7 as a babe-in-arms), sister-in-law Helen (Sections 11 and 12), sister Rowan (Sections 3 and 11) and her friend Phil (Section 11)</li>
<li>and first-timers: my wife Chris, mother-in-law Dot, sister-in-law Marianne and Karen's partner Reuan.</li>
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We headed north to the coast - and gave everyone a taste of how rough the Watershed walking can be. A few were in their party best, but they all saw the funny side as we encountered walls, brambles, heather and bog.<br />
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The last km was on the coastal path, and there was a great reception at the official end - including the only two whose legs weren't up to the final bit, my father Shaun and father-in-law Ray. The photo shows me at the end, supping a pint of Cornish Rattler cider (a gift from Dave Hewitt) from an engraved tankard commissioned by Chris to mark the occasion.<br />
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The Watershed finished at 342250 on map 203, and the stats for this final Section were 215km and 1,280m of ascent.<br />
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The party in the <i>Land's End Hotel</i> that evening was excellent, with mini-speeches by 96-year-old Shaun, myself and 6-year-old Rufus. My father had made a great effort to be there at the end, and this blog is dedicated to his memory; he died just a few months later.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-27521947774624267742009-06-19T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T09:56:34.604-08:00Day 125 - the coast-to-coast day<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This was a great day, as the six of us walked from the south coast to the north coast of Cornwall. The weather was fine, but our visitors' health wasn't. One was vomiting all morning, and two were subsequently diagnosed with swine flu - it's impressive that they completed the walk.<br />
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It was gloriously varied:<br />
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<li>narrow road to Germoe</li>
<li>overgrown footpath to Millpool</li>
<li>byway to Halamanning</li>
<li>narrow road to a campsite beside the River Hayle </li>
<li>2km of beautiful footpath beside the river (photo)</li>
<li>a mixture to Canonstown (lunch at the <i>Flag & Lamb</i>)</li>
<li>path then road through Cripplesease and round Trendrine Hill</li>
<li> a good path over Amalveor and Lady Downs</li>
<li>and a final ghastly slog (boggy and overgrown) from Nine Maidens to our camping place at Bosigran Farm.</li>
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We camped (with prior permission) overlooking Porthmeor Cove at 427372.</div>
Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-10482039392310051892009-06-18T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T10:22:11.607-08:00Day 124 - to the south coast<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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What a great contrast with yesterday! The weather was fine, and there was plenty of interest in the walking.</div>
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We followed narrow roads and footpaths through Wheal Busy, Tregullow and Vogue to reach Gwennap Pit (on map 203 - see photo left) at about 11am. I had taken part in the <i>Walk Cornwall</i> mission in 1993, which had culminated in a memorable meeting at this famous Wesleyan gathering place.</div>
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We then took the B3280 for about 8km - pleasant enough and we made good progress towards our planned rendez-vous with my brother Bartow's four children this evening. After Black Rock we were onto narrower roads and footpaths to Nancegollan, and through the Wheal Vor ancient mining area (more about this in the book). Up and over Tresoweshill and down an overgrown path to the A394 at Ashton. Lisl, Anna, Jonny and Ben arrived by car, and Lisl and Ben joined us for the last part of the walk while Anna and Jonny took the stuff to the campsite (a real one this time).</div>
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I had spotted from the maps that it was possible to take the Watershed right onto Praa Sands, and then tomorrow up to the north coast without crossing any thin blue lines - so that's what we did. The photos at the top right show Tim, Ben and Lisl on the coastal path, and a very happy me with Praa Sands in the background. We left the Watershed at 580282 to camp at Pentreath. A hilarious evening ensued.</div>
Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-85875035495657412372009-06-17T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-27T14:39:46.529-08:00Day 123 - glad it wasn't all like this!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The photo shows the plaque on Castle-an-Dinas where we camped last night.<br />
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Today was poor. It rained most of the day, and we were on roads most of the day (the A30 after lunch). There was nothing worth photographing or describing!<br />
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We lunched at the <i>Plume of Feathers</i> in Mitchell, having walked through Indian Queens and St Enoder. We only got off the A30 for about 2km through Zelah (onto map 204), and were very relieved to get to Three Burrows just before 6pm - very wet and badly blistered from the incessant road-walking.<br />
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We decided to treat ourselves to a B&B at the <i>Chiverton Arms</i> (744470).Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-15998066472224317782009-06-16T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T10:14:42.467-08:00Day 122 - progress and ancient history<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Today started and finished on hilltops showing the remains of pre-historic settlements, but along the way there was another example of how things have changed in more recent years.<br />
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Breakfast was great - sunshine, views all round, dancing gnats and skylarks. We made our way across open moor north then west (onto map 200) to Hawk's Tor with its rocky summit (see photo), then we had a long slog along the busy A30 - impossible to avoid. We left it to drop into Bodmin town, where we visited the impressive church of St Petroc (one of the patron saints of Cornwall), and lunched at the <i>Weavers</i>.<br />
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We crossed the Bodmin & Wenford railway and then the A30. We had a few km of respite from it along narrow country roads, and just as we reached Bokiddick Farm, Tim said he could smell the sea - we weren't very far from St Austell on the south coast at this point.<br />
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We would have been back on the A30 for a while according to my 2002 map, but it had been dualled, leaving the original road as a deserted byroad. We had good views to the south of the China Clay Mountains. (The new road had gone straight through the site of the historic Bodmin Radio Station).<br />
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After supper in Victoria, we walked up the B3274, and then made our way to the summit of Castle Downs, and camped within the Iron Age fortifications called Castle-an-Dinas (at 945624).Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-26506536140046988052009-06-15T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-29T14:10:37.469-08:00Day 121 - onto Bodmin Moor<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This was an eventful day, despite a lot of it being on roads.<br />
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We reached the A39 at Wainhouse Corner, and then the watershed veered off to the right, through Tresparrett Posts and Marshgate. This area was the origin of the dreadful flash flood which destroyed much of Boscastle in 2004.<br />
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Back onto the A39, and onto map 200, we then turned left at the large Dairy Crest factory ("the home of cheese") and found the tiny RAF museum of Davidstowe Moor (see photo of a Canberra engine) commemorating the nearby wartime airfield. We picnicked by Davidstow Woods, and then (onto map 201) we struck south across open moorland up to the summit of Brown Willy on Bodmin Moor (the highest point in Cornwall at 420m). Chris and I had climbed it a few years earlier from the other side. I shot this short video of the panorama from the top.<br />
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We dropped down to Bolventor and had supper in the famous <i>Jamaica Inn</i>. In the evening we walked along the very busy A30 (not for the last time, unfortunately), and camped at the top of Brockabarrow Common - at 160748. (The book will tell the drama of the sinking cow).Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-39793683932142840772009-06-14T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-27T04:38:02.745-08:00Day 120 - alongside the young Tamar<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We enjoyed the morning service at St Olaf's in Poughill, and were given a lift up to Kilkhampton by a couple of members of the congregation. We shopped, and lunched at the <i>New Inn</i>, and we were back on the Watershed (on map 190) at 1:30pm in good weather.<br />
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The route was due south on the B3254 for a very long way, and we relieved the monotony by dropping down to the young Tamar at its closest point (Merrifield) - see photo. Eventually we turned off on narrow country roads to Week St Mary, where we had supper at a pub and talked with some locals - getting advice about suitable farms for us to camp.<br />
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They warned us of a naturist colony nearby but we didn't spot anyone. We camped on farmland between Landhillick and Poulza - at 213955.<br />
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<br />Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-63413549582955283482009-06-13T20:00:00.000-07:002013-02-25T12:23:34.392-08:00SECTION 14 - Bude to Land's End<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This was the final Section of the JoGLE Watershed, with a long-anticipated denouement at Land's End.<br />
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Tim was back with me for the whole Section, which was a great joy, and we were to be joined by other relations and friends later on.<br />
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We travelled down by train to Exeter, and bus to Bude on the Saturday, and spent the night in a B&B. The photo shows us resuming the Watershed in Kilkhampton.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-57024682188943910052008-08-11T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T10:21:39.836-08:00Day 119 - round the Tamar<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The River Tamar marks the boundary between Devon and Cornwall, and it rises within 10km of the north coast. Today's walk was entirely on roads - narrow in the morning and then south on the busy A39 in the afternoon - apart from a short but desperately difficult 200m round the head of the river.<br />
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On the way north I saw some balloons celebrating a 60th birthday, a few deer, and heard the raucous geese on the Tamar Lakes. [When I got home I discovered that one of my golfing friends had been the chief engineer for the building of their dams.]<br />
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On reaching Hardsworthy Farm I asked if I could go across their land to Newlands Farm, because the Watershed went that way. I got permission but the farmer said that there was no way through. I said that I'd encountered lots of difficult terrain over the previous 12 years and that I was sure I'd manage. Little did I know.<br />
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Suffice it to say that it took me an hour to go 200 metres. I really could have done with a machete. It was swampy underfoot and virtually impenetrable bushes above. I eventually emerged, absolutely filthy and bleeding from several places.<br />
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After brushing myself off, I walked up to Newlands Farm, and found a sign "Tamar Rise" (see photo). This was followed by 6km down the A39, with good coastal views - quite a treat to finish off this penultimate Section. I left the Watershed in Kilkhampton at 252112, and hitched down to Bude, where I caught the last bus to Exeter by the skin of my teeth. In the book I'll say how I thought I was being kidnapped by my driver.<br />
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The stats for this Section were 179km and 1028m of ascent.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-29307520993978469262008-08-10T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T10:24:31.876-08:00Day 118 - Dr Beeching's legacy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8_dwWfs0G0wM3b7vURrpmO4tAX-vgeDhGt1zhVqiQV5d0rl7zAIav_W3t4cPSHlU5CNaLXamLNmPAf9SepI3PKJxLIuUA4bSo-1sjflzDTcnkNhUaYmnBxvc0vDLELy9Uyyd0ohLyR0c/s1600/www13+_56+-+beeching+close+joke+halwill+junction.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8_dwWfs0G0wM3b7vURrpmO4tAX-vgeDhGt1zhVqiQV5d0rl7zAIav_W3t4cPSHlU5CNaLXamLNmPAf9SepI3PKJxLIuUA4bSo-1sjflzDTcnkNhUaYmnBxvc0vDLELy9Uyyd0ohLyR0c/s320/www13+_56+-+beeching+close+joke+halwill+junction.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
After the morning service in the church next to Tony's cottage, he dropped me back on the Watershed at 12:30pm. I took the path down to Meldon (about 4km SW of Okehampton, which is now the terminus of the railway system).<br />
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I walked a short way along one of the railways which was axed by Beeching (and is now a cycleway), and then onto another, which had previously run through to Bude. This route started off quite walkable, but eventually became completely overgrown, so I transferred onto the A3079 and stayed on it all the way to Halwill Junction (onto map 190).<br />
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I had a good supper at the <i>Junction Inn</i> and learned some of the history of the place. Beeching's decision to close the branch lines which converged at Halwill led to the closure of the station in the 1980s. I was amused at the ironic naming of the housing estate built over it.<br />
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The disused line to the north has been converted into a cycleway and nature reserve, and made for some good walking. It then became a forest track. The map showed that I needed to detour from that track, but the Higher Whiteleigh owner refused me entry, and I had to retrace my steps and cross a small trickle. Not happy.<br />
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Once out of the forest I was on the A3079 then the A3072 as far as 382042, where I camped (rather late) in another poultry farm with permission.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-69363083944475819292008-08-09T20:00:00.000-07:002013-02-25T12:32:05.645-08:00Day 117 - drenched on Dartmoor<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibOSePpB8cLUC5C_6bfbgFaBC6uU-uJsL3Q0GfFknRDmQcfHH5yKFfL6EF7XYUFHqG9mAsfcz4mbWmH5wRQbLFpS2pgaFekyMMNUfaJdHACXqitb_JYDoMkovRhFD6e0B0zGCWyLz8f_4/s1600/www13+_42+-+cranmere+letterbox+tony+whisky.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibOSePpB8cLUC5C_6bfbgFaBC6uU-uJsL3Q0GfFknRDmQcfHH5yKFfL6EF7XYUFHqG9mAsfcz4mbWmH5wRQbLFpS2pgaFekyMMNUfaJdHACXqitb_JYDoMkovRhFD6e0B0zGCWyLz8f_4/s320/www13+_42+-+cranmere+letterbox+tony+whisky.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
After a splendid evening with Tony and his daughter, he and I were back on the Watershed by 8am - in the hope of missing the worst of the downpour which had been forecast.<br />
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As it turned out, we started in light drizzle which got progressively heavier - we were drenched. There was also a strong wind on the tops, so it was a tough walk across Dartmoor. I was expecting this to be the last really wild day on the whole Watershed, and it certainly was wild.<br />
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We passed a well-preserved stone circle on our way up to Hound Tor, on a well-defined path. After that, the going was rougher to Hangingstone Hill. Between there and Great Knesset is a large area of bog, which gives rise to several river systems. We looked for and found the Cranmere Pool Letterbox (marked on the map and shown in the photo). Someone had left half a bottle of straw-coloured liquid in it, which Tony nobly sampled first. It was good stuff! We signed the visitors book, and I left a few postcards there. It was gratifying to learn later that they had been duly posted by a later visitor, according to custom.<br />
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We floundered across the trackless moor in deteriorating weather and were relieved to get down to Sourton by 3:30pm. We left the Watershed at 551907, and took a bus and taxi back to the car.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-1003928270652770032008-08-08T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T10:30:13.650-08:00Day 116 - Old Uncle Tom Cobley and all...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This was a gentle day, as there was plenty of time for me to get to South Zeal to meet up with my golfing friend Tony. He had been intrigued by my Watershed venture, and had offered me his company across Dartmoor, and a couple of nights in his cottage.<br />
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After walking through Copplestone, I briefly followed the Two Moors Way at Clannaborough Barton. There's a magnificent herd of Red Ruby Devon cattle which have been bred there by the same family for at least 6 generations. I also spent time at the parish church next to the farm, and was amused to see a notice saying that the electoral roll contained nine and nine-fourteenths people! There were plenty of house-martins, and I could hear buzzards calling most of the day.<br />
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There were no roads or footpaths available between Thorne farm and after Hilldown, and I needed a minor trespass to get through. The only challenge came from a dog. Lunch was at the <i>Tom Cobley Tavern</i> in Spreyton, from where the ill-fated trip to Widdecombe Fair set out in 1802.<br />
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Straightforward road-walking after lunch brought me to South Zeal by 4pm, and I was met there a bit later by Tony. The Watershed turns south just before the village - at 663931.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-66049468540541927762008-08-07T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T10:56:57.905-08:00Day 115 - friendly locals<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHjAIyvbq1CZJJvy4V-5SVhvR0AVbqOavowZ1NMyHHLVLzHq3pnBKy990438TDQ1amNmdytkyrxh1lZJFWL8FMndDA4lkJ2hJa1NccLglMqEkKwn3ot8VT-0TllwxWxCozZUy0J5Fx1u8/s1600/www13+_14+-+skittish+bullocks+-+rolstone+barton.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHjAIyvbq1CZJJvy4V-5SVhvR0AVbqOavowZ1NMyHHLVLzHq3pnBKy990438TDQ1amNmdytkyrxh1lZJFWL8FMndDA4lkJ2hJa1NccLglMqEkKwn3ot8VT-0TllwxWxCozZUy0J5Fx1u8/s320/www13+_14+-+skittish+bullocks+-+rolstone+barton.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
John and Clare were friendliness personified - not only did they offer me a shower last night, but they invited me in for breakfast as I was leaving this morning. The book will record some of our conversation - well worth a read.<br />
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Of necessity I was on roads all morning, but with very little traffic. The roads had a distinctive west country feel to them, slightly sunken, with earth and stone banks capped by hedges and trees. When there was a break I had views back to Exmoor and forward to Dartmoor.<br />
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Onto map 191, I was running late to get to the <i>Black Dog Inn</i> (in Black Dog!) for lunch, but a couple of girls gave me a lift the last couple of miles. I also got a lift back - first time. The afternoon's walk was also along roads apart from a couple of short footpaths across farmland. The cows in the photo were friendly to the point of friskiness, and we played a good game a bit like "what's the time Mr Wolf?".<br />
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The farmer at Bewsley Farm outside Copplestone allowed me to camp there (770034).Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-66381684212048358232008-08-06T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-26T09:51:47.402-08:00Day 114 - Exe and Yeo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpBwPoRwpqE7a7mrlAWCpBhgalebS_cR5WOWZAiC7u1NB-WSla46fUpv0bSYOG-jD7SyfCYmQXjx8uAKuTvg88FkZ-4EqOugv_cfrYcUCb49_RO6u1Ky36b6gsxPEr47AznZU6fMmRu8g/s1600/www13+_07+-+exmoor+ponies+2+-+anstey+gate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpBwPoRwpqE7a7mrlAWCpBhgalebS_cR5WOWZAiC7u1NB-WSla46fUpv0bSYOG-jD7SyfCYmQXjx8uAKuTvg88FkZ-4EqOugv_cfrYcUCb49_RO6u1Ky36b6gsxPEr47AznZU6fMmRu8g/s320/www13+_07+-+exmoor+ponies+2+-+anstey+gate.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Most of today was on the Somerset/Devon border heading south-east, finishing at the head of the River Yeo.<br />
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The Watershed was shared initially by the Tarka Trail on a good path, and then a cycle route (NCN3) all the way to Five Cross Ways. The walking was uneventful apart from encountering some Exmoor ponies (see photo), and being disappointed by the <i>Sportsmans Inn</i> being closed for lunch!<br />
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Onto map 181, the ridge was interesting in having good views of the Exe to the north (flowing east) and the Yeo to the south (flowing west). I turned sharp right at Five Cross Ways and was offered a place to camp (872262) by John and Clare at a poultry farm in East Anstey. The local pub (<i>Froude Arms</i>) was marked on my map, but had closed 5 years ago, so I hitched up to the <i>Jubilee</i> on the B3227.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-68767424345507579972008-08-05T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-25T15:56:20.940-08:00Day 113 - atmospheric Exmoor <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRzVb2v3tRXmDXvSNoCgqomsYNpMjLTn8UvLZ-_gXFI8EB3ZWHanjutNnoOEQg_Pckrcl1zmyiqHaqus7T-s6Y8TULBhvQlr3-5mZiDd-02qb8Y58se77JgxknMXf3GWtI0Y5kGqiYDqI/s1600/www13+_01+-+night+1+-+wood+barrow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRzVb2v3tRXmDXvSNoCgqomsYNpMjLTn8UvLZ-_gXFI8EB3ZWHanjutNnoOEQg_Pckrcl1zmyiqHaqus7T-s6Y8TULBhvQlr3-5mZiDd-02qb8Y58se77JgxknMXf3GWtI0Y5kGqiYDqI/s320/www13+_01+-+night+1+-+wood+barrow.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
After a pleasant and long walk up from County Gate, there wasn't much walking time left when I reached the starting point (763417 on map 180).<br />
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I walked a couple of hours due west from the road. The first 2km were across rough trackless moorland on Exe Plain. There was a sign on the gate as I started which said "Mire restoration. Boggy. Pools." I thought the mire was already adequate, as it was raining hard by now, but I could see that they'd been damming the drainage ditches to recreate original "mire". This was to encourage peat growth.<br />
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At last I reached the Two Moors Way which I followed briefly to the gate at Exe Head (see the previous post). Then I went west on the Tarka Trail to Wood Barrow where I camped (see photo - 716425). Nothing to see in the evening as I was in cloud.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-30461568269004620042008-08-05T15:00:00.000-07:002013-01-25T15:44:27.896-08:00SECTION 13 - Exmoor to Bude<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiuFkbD0kF7Is4WDGDy0XQIqupL6-QfCQFm-3dKd__JqG6BDZWtotsroOMj4_YbPobik5fCXwgVk-H40Etsi-AW8IgteBemJ0Zu9V44NIpKm1aa62CyWFaBsH8-y271iX5cBMdC91lta8/s1600/www13+_00a+-+exe+plain+-+2+moors+way.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiuFkbD0kF7Is4WDGDy0XQIqupL6-QfCQFm-3dKd__JqG6BDZWtotsroOMj4_YbPobik5fCXwgVk-H40Etsi-AW8IgteBemJ0Zu9V44NIpKm1aa62CyWFaBsH8-y271iX5cBMdC91lta8/s320/www13+_00a+-+exe+plain+-+2+moors+way.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This Section is nearly totally in Devon, and takes in Exmoor in the north and Dartmoor in the south, finishing near the north coast again near Bude, having rounded the head of the Tamar - which marks the boundary with Cornwall.<br />
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The dates hadn't worked out for Peter to join me again this year, but he, Tim and I had enjoyed a great time on the Torridon Munros earlier in the summer.<br />
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Having read Lorna Doone last year, I'd decided to get back to the start of this Section by walking up Badgeworthy Water and Doone Country from County Gate, rather than hitching. This was a splendid start. [If you do it, there's an unexpected toll path for part of it which will cost you 50p!]<br />
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The photo shows the point I reached quite soon after setting off, where the Two Moors Way meets the Macmillan Way West and the Tarka Trail. As you see, the weather was grim.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-23509643660997309342007-08-15T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T10:35:57.837-08:00Day 112 - proper Watershedding again!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This photo shows where we camped on the last night of this Section.<br />
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We followed the road shown for 2km, then the Macmillan Way West for another 3km. As yesterday, this was a reasonable path. However, the Watershed leaves it at about 800410 (onto map 180), and we were pathless for the last 4km.<br />
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I was quite pleased to give Peter the authentic Watershed experience - heavy rain, long tussocky grass, bog-holes, heather and only the occasional deer track to follow along the flat ridge. He coped very well, particularly as he has inadequate waterproofs.<br />
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We reached the B3223 at noon. We were half a day ahead of schedule, and could have continued on the Watershed around the sources of the Exe, but after debating the options we decided to hitch to civilisation and call it a day. So this Section finished at 763417.<br />
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To our amazement, in our soaking and bedraggled state, we were picked up by the first car (containing 2 quite elderly women) and they took us down to Lynmouth, where we caught the bus to Minehead and then to Taunton for the train home.<br />
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The stats for this Section were 98km and 994m of ascent.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-57911582320140388042007-08-14T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T10:37:31.363-08:00Day 111 - Dunkerry Beacon on Exmoor<br />
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In the morning we thanked our "landlady" with a bottle of beer in exchange for some water, and set off at about 10am.<br />
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For the first time in several sections, we were walking in cloud for most of the morning (at about 400m).<br />
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We took the road and then bridleway over Lype Hill and down to Wheddon Cross, where we met Helen for lunch (in the well-named <i>Rest and be Thankful</i>). She drove our packs to the Dunkerry Beacon car park while we followed on foot, and we then made a leisurely ascent of the Beacon (at 519m the highest point on Exmoor). The cloud lifted just in time for photos at the cairn, and over the fabulous Porlock Bay.</div>
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After Helen left us, we followed the Macmillan Way West on a pretty good path all the way to where we camped at 835422. The last hour was heavy rain, and we were too cold and wet to do much, so we had an early night.</div>
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Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-52893981395864742292007-08-13T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T10:39:37.422-08:00Day 110 - towards the Bristol Channel<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFUybtocy0qqGLImwR1uiHp1D6ZtcCt5LhzaFs98h3L-HPU8yuefCn90YwRDQ6hyphenhyphenrnoIeZVd9Tv5FQAFd4Y3ufVaRFtgcabI2EL0K_CjPj6wSoTSS5OpsEWzYNl56c9JiHO8JsZqlKXDU/s1600/www12.17+-+horse-shoeing+at+steeple+cross+-+improved.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFUybtocy0qqGLImwR1uiHp1D6ZtcCt5LhzaFs98h3L-HPU8yuefCn90YwRDQ6hyphenhyphenrnoIeZVd9Tv5FQAFd4Y3ufVaRFtgcabI2EL0K_CjPj6wSoTSS5OpsEWzYNl56c9JiHO8JsZqlKXDU/s320/www12.17+-+horse-shoeing+at+steeple+cross+-+improved.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
We were off again at 9am, and thanked the farmer on our way out. We dropped down to the Grand Western Canal, and walked the towpath for a pleasant few minutes. We then had a struggle with stinging nettles in an area of quarry towards Holcombe Rogus (where we restocked at the little shop).<br />
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Afterwards we were on narrow roads as far as Clayhanger, where we stopped for a picnic lunch. On the way, at Staple Cross, we watched a horse being shod (see photo).<br />
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There were more paths and roads in the afternoon as we gradually climbed up to the Brendon Hills, which are only about 8km from the Bristol Channel. The last part was along an excellent green path which had once been a railway. We knocked on a door near the Round House on the B3224, and were made welcome to camp (at 984355).<br />
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In the evening an IT friend of mine living in Exeter picked us up and drove us to the <i>Rock Inn</i> at Waterrow. I was pleased to visit this village, as I'd spotted it on the map while planning this Section. It's quite close to the Watershed, but steeply down from it, by the River Tone. Paul very kindly left us with a goody bag for our journey, and £20 sponsorship for my charity, when he dropped us back at the tent.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-24355374219163196872007-08-12T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-25T14:22:51.890-08:00Day 109 - Blackdown Hills and Wellington<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV1EdBbpInoYHYxEtPdMIM_m__3Bd_RlmswjAS5ptrMudb7YpVF7mWMbc5iB-4sS2uOt9XJmkE67YsS5LfTL5lv0npbzY0aPXWhsGsbZgArmOa4HXkv__Vxa9OJf7SY4v-hFuKfqZGHpM/s1600/www12.08+-+m,+p+at+Wellington+memorial+-+improved.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV1EdBbpInoYHYxEtPdMIM_m__3Bd_RlmswjAS5ptrMudb7YpVF7mWMbc5iB-4sS2uOt9XJmkE67YsS5LfTL5lv0npbzY0aPXWhsGsbZgArmOa4HXkv__Vxa9OJf7SY4v-hFuKfqZGHpM/s320/www12.08+-+m,+p+at+Wellington+memorial+-+improved.jpeg" width="151" /></a></div>
In the morning we went to All Saints church in Trull just outside Taunton with a family friend (whose step-daughter Mary has subsequently married my son Tim). Mike then drove us back up to Holman Clavel where we lunched at the <i>Holman Clavel Inn</i>.<br />
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Mike joined us for an hour or so along the country road running the length of the Blackdown Hills, with good views to the north over the Tone valley. Onto map 181, we reached the Wellington monument (see photo) - a major landmark for this region.<br />
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The last part of the ridge is the Gallops on Blackdown Common - beautiful heathland with heather and gorse in full bloom. We then followed roads through Burlescombe, and camped (without permission but with an explanatory note through the farmhouse door) at 075174.<br />
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We ate at the tent, then walked into the village for a pint at the Ayshford Arms, where were shown the "longest skittle alley in the west".<br />
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That night I stayed outside the tent for a couple of hours in my sleeping bag in order to see the Perseid meteor shower. I only saw two, perhaps because there was intermittent cloud cover.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-36788207971176285432007-08-11T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T10:49:22.896-08:00Day 108 - the famous Street Ash cows<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Peter joined my train to Taunton at Reading. We were planning to meet my cousin Mike on the Watershed that evening, for a lift down to his house in Taunton. By chance we bumped into him while we were in transit in Taunton, so he was able to relieve us of some of our unwanted weight.<br />
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We took the bus to Chard, found the spot where we'd finished last year, and set off on the Watershed on map 193 at 3pm. The first task was to dispose of 5km on the A30 - not much fun.<br />
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After a short section of bridleway we were on narrow country road all the way to our meeting place. As we passed the village of Street Ash, I pointed out to Peter - "oh look, there are the famous Street Ash Cows" - just a joke. This tickled his sense of humour, and we still refer to it several year later; if he forms a band he's thinking of using it as their name.<br />
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To relieve the boredom of road-walking, we took a little detour into the wood at Britty Common, where we saw this impressive logging machine.<br />
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We met Mike at (Holman Clavel - 222160) just after 7pm, and he drove us down to his home in Taunton for the night.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-89218598771152791662007-08-11T15:00:00.000-07:002013-01-25T13:33:29.227-08:00SECTION 12 - Chard to Exmoor<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiNqVyORpOFIz2uSLa8mYS7aO9GA59-FXpNYICbOkTSvpAbPZ-aXJg9dgFqnrExLHzJN9BpQxGkzWh2kTZaynDGyvgNSgmrd_YQvSnGTx26JR4VpaIUDnJDErOCqwCyEKm2qTl1m9TcLA/s1600/www12.01+-+m+in+chard+-+cropped+-+improved.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiNqVyORpOFIz2uSLa8mYS7aO9GA59-FXpNYICbOkTSvpAbPZ-aXJg9dgFqnrExLHzJN9BpQxGkzWh2kTZaynDGyvgNSgmrd_YQvSnGTx26JR4VpaIUDnJDErOCqwCyEKm2qTl1m9TcLA/s320/www12.01+-+m+in+chard+-+cropped+-+improved.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This Section was nearly all in Somerset. I walked it with my nephew Peter, as last year, and we were briefly joined by my cousin Mike.<br />
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This photo shows Chard, just before we set off, with its little stream at the side of Fore Street.<br />
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<br />Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-37550092097794993222006-08-16T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T10:51:25.733-08:00Day 107 - Watershed confusion in Chard<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It took us under 2 hours to get into Chard (the highest town in Somerset), from where we caught a bus into Taunton for the train home.<br />
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There were a couple of mini-dramas this morning. Peter lost his blood-sugar tester (just as well it was the last day, as this was important for him), and I found something like a tick on my eyelid. I was referred by the surgery to the hospital, but on my way there the thing fell off.<br />
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We discovered that Chard is one of the few towns which has water channels at the side of the streets. (Cambridge is another). Fore Street is reckoned to be exactly on the Watershed, with its little streams parting company to the north and the south. Tricky to spot on the map! [Chard is fascinating for several other reasons, which I'll describe in the book.] We left the Watershed at 322086.<br />
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The stats for Section 11 were 159km with 1,049m of ascent.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-90864372685338493432006-08-15T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T10:53:53.641-08:00Day 106 - animal/vegetable/mineral<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzjdSTry8o-ZE0RZ22HUH_OkHVNqhMAWJ9FQIEfeN7eU0ENA-lPN9Jv5TwBf_xz00zd4h_x6CHGeZvPJeeyqgtCHfy4W-Yl8lfKrxClNu5wAaVNyP68jyGhMud5RbT7G0aerbnU2I3UGM/s1600/www11+081+thatching+in+evershot+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzjdSTry8o-ZE0RZ22HUH_OkHVNqhMAWJ9FQIEfeN7eU0ENA-lPN9Jv5TwBf_xz00zd4h_x6CHGeZvPJeeyqgtCHfy4W-Yl8lfKrxClNu5wAaVNyP68jyGhMud5RbT7G0aerbnU2I3UGM/s320/www11+081+thatching+in+evershot+(2).JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
We set off at 8:30am up a footpath I'd noticed on the map. It turned out to be completely overgrown with brambles and nettles, and at one point was blocked by a thick hedge. I stubbornly insisted on my rambling rights, but came off worse than the vegetation. Shortly afterwards we reached the lovely village of Evershot, and watched a thatcher at work (see photo).<br />
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There was the usual mixture of roads and paths today - mostly pleasant, but we did have to cope with 4km on the A356 before lunching at Winyard's Gap and another 4km on the A30 at the end of the day. The pub lunch at Winyard's Gap was a long, lazy and somewhat liquid affair. We spent some time there playing 20 Questions - I noted in my journal that the most esoteric item on the card was "Gordon Brown's 2005 Budget Speech"! At WG, there was a plaque describing "the Channel Link" - an LDP connecting the English and Bristol Channels.<br />
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Onto map 193, the afternoon's walk afforded good views north and south as the Watershed runs parallel to the River Axe. When we got to Windwhistle, farmers Derek and Jean kindly agreed for us to camp on their land (at 388094).<br />
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We dined at the <i>Windwhistle Inn</i> with Jan, and afterwards Keith and Jan left for home.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4137028377242349482.post-65181720747682893952006-08-14T20:00:00.000-07:002013-01-28T10:55:56.147-08:00Day 105 - Sherborne and Telegraph Hill<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Today, it was just Peter, Keith and me walking. Helen once again found a camping place ahead on the Watershed. We made an early start as I knew this would be Peter's longest day.<br />
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The morning was a good mixture of largely traffic-free roads and footpaths, with a couple of minor trespasses thrown in - one of which was mildly challenged on exit (Frith House). The other was through a wood above Sherborne (see photo).<br />
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After lunch with Helen and Thomas near St Antony's Leweston School (map 194), we had a less interesting walk, nearly all on roads. The monotony was broken by the Holm Bushes, a path up Telegraph Hill, and seeing some unexpected llamas peeking over a wall at us.<br />
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We camped on a hillside at Woolcombe Farm (595055), and then drove into Evershot for a rather splendid meal at the <i>Acorn</i>, which had been recommended by Keith (who lives reasonably close, in Dorchester). After supper Helen and Thomas returned home.Malcolm Wylie (previously Watershedder)http://www.blogger.com/profile/10488129801353393279noreply@blogger.com0